Written on 3.3.2010 in Oxapampa, Peru:
The Luck of Libby is having both deep roots and strong wings. Thank God for my open minded, yet caring parents, abiertos y cariñosos. I was given both stability and adventurousness under the same roof. Of all the places I've been, I know there's no place like home, but I've only learned that by seeing, doing, feeling, being and learning in places far from these comforts. For me, being here now in Peru is the ultimate journey physically and spiritually. It's the precise moment in my life in which I am able to fully absorb it and acknowledge it for all that it is. Not to say that I won't continue to fly and continue living primarily away from home, but I feel a distinct sentiment of peace overcoming me, as though I had been searching for something that I have now found. Following my heart has not always been clear and easy, but it is a way of life that stems from my roots. We all have the ability to live this truthfully, to live for ourselves. We have only to overcome the challenge of looking deep within.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Digging Lima
At face value, Lima is gigantic, the traffic flow is completely disorganized, the air is immensely poluted, the streets of most neighborhoods are dirty and full of pety crime and the people in the busses wear tragic expressions. It is definitely not a city in which I could ever live, but I find myself facinated with it´s complexity and feel lucky to be learning about it from a perspective a bit below the surface.
A few weeks ago, I experienced yet another side of Lima. Through WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms), I lived at a health facility that provides natural treatments, primarily raw food as medicine, for (mainly) low-income patients with cancer and other illnesses. There I worked side by side with Peruvian farmers on a beautiful, young organic garden that provides food for the clinic. I hold much respect for these hard-working, good hearted guys who willingly taught me their daily routines.
On day one, I weeded around the beets, carrots, basil and tomatoes and then in the evening, I helped to pick, wash, and bundle the beautiful produce for delivery. Day two held a back-breaking day of shoveling cow manure at a nearby stable. We loaded the "goods" into big, heavy bags, crammed the van full, and delivered it to the gardens which are currently undergoing expansion. I kept up well with the boys...just call me Libby the tough! The third day I weeded more and then had a lesson in planting seeds of lettuce, alfalfa, cilantro, and parsley. I was so happy to get a good look at the majority of the processes.
The garden, Biodinamica, founded by the very generous, community oriented, and intelligent Dinko Vlahovic is separate from the health facility, Casanova, but they are very much interconnected via family and purpose. Both organizations exist solely to provide healthy options for the community and they do not seek capital gain. The clean, fully organic practices of both stand out in a community, country and even in the world at large where money most often reigns over health and the general well being of the people.
Dinko´s father-in-law Dr. Carlos Casanova Lenti is the founder of the clinic, Casanova and I was amazed to learn that he has been practicing with raw food as a medicine for 50 or 60 years. His work is world renown and I understand that his facility that previously existed in Cajamarca, Peru is somewhat of a famous attraction for Peruvians and tourists alike. I was pleased to have the chance to meet Dr. Casanova, and from just one brief encounter (as well as a few informative conversations with his son-in-law) it is fully evident that the doctor has devoted his entire life to the pursuit of helping others through naturopathy.
My three days working for Biodinamica were surely comprised of hard work, but I also reaped the benefits at meal time! I stayed in a room at the clinic and the nurses and staff there took incredible care of me. For the entire time, my diet consisted of big, healthy portions of raw, organic fruits and vegetables. Each meal included three fruits such as papaya, mango, and grapes, three healthy juices, the first of beets, the second of pecans and pinapple, and the third a small shot of parsley. Additionally, for lunch (the biggest meal) a lovely salad was also made especially for me.
This urban gardening experience gave me a beautiful look at an opearation that I was incredibly surprised to find in Lima. The work was tough, particularly under the intense summer sun and in the humidity of Lima, but I was welcomed with the utmost kindness. My time there was invaluable and worth every drop of sweat! Hats off to the farmers of Biodinamica and to all of the staff at Casanova.
A few weeks ago, I experienced yet another side of Lima. Through WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms), I lived at a health facility that provides natural treatments, primarily raw food as medicine, for (mainly) low-income patients with cancer and other illnesses. There I worked side by side with Peruvian farmers on a beautiful, young organic garden that provides food for the clinic. I hold much respect for these hard-working, good hearted guys who willingly taught me their daily routines.
On day one, I weeded around the beets, carrots, basil and tomatoes and then in the evening, I helped to pick, wash, and bundle the beautiful produce for delivery. Day two held a back-breaking day of shoveling cow manure at a nearby stable. We loaded the "goods" into big, heavy bags, crammed the van full, and delivered it to the gardens which are currently undergoing expansion. I kept up well with the boys...just call me Libby the tough! The third day I weeded more and then had a lesson in planting seeds of lettuce, alfalfa, cilantro, and parsley. I was so happy to get a good look at the majority of the processes.
The garden, Biodinamica, founded by the very generous, community oriented, and intelligent Dinko Vlahovic is separate from the health facility, Casanova, but they are very much interconnected via family and purpose. Both organizations exist solely to provide healthy options for the community and they do not seek capital gain. The clean, fully organic practices of both stand out in a community, country and even in the world at large where money most often reigns over health and the general well being of the people.
Dinko´s father-in-law Dr. Carlos Casanova Lenti is the founder of the clinic, Casanova and I was amazed to learn that he has been practicing with raw food as a medicine for 50 or 60 years. His work is world renown and I understand that his facility that previously existed in Cajamarca, Peru is somewhat of a famous attraction for Peruvians and tourists alike. I was pleased to have the chance to meet Dr. Casanova, and from just one brief encounter (as well as a few informative conversations with his son-in-law) it is fully evident that the doctor has devoted his entire life to the pursuit of helping others through naturopathy.
My three days working for Biodinamica were surely comprised of hard work, but I also reaped the benefits at meal time! I stayed in a room at the clinic and the nurses and staff there took incredible care of me. For the entire time, my diet consisted of big, healthy portions of raw, organic fruits and vegetables. Each meal included three fruits such as papaya, mango, and grapes, three healthy juices, the first of beets, the second of pecans and pinapple, and the third a small shot of parsley. Additionally, for lunch (the biggest meal) a lovely salad was also made especially for me.
This urban gardening experience gave me a beautiful look at an opearation that I was incredibly surprised to find in Lima. The work was tough, particularly under the intense summer sun and in the humidity of Lima, but I was welcomed with the utmost kindness. My time there was invaluable and worth every drop of sweat! Hats off to the farmers of Biodinamica and to all of the staff at Casanova.
Friday, March 26, 2010
My Favorite Floating Island
Qhantati, one of the floating islands of Los Uros will stay close to my heart. My experience there was peaceful and perfect. The way of life is simple and beautiful. On Lake Titicaca, I (La Americana) traveled with Estefanía (La Española), and Perrine (La Francesa). Qhantati was the first, and by far, the best island we visited, hands down.
Los Uros are floating islands, man-made from totora, a reed like plant that grows naturally in the lake. These small island communities use totora to build nearly everything, including the ground, the huts, the boats, and other household items. On Qhantati, there are 6 families and they operate as a very tight community. I believe there are 40 something islands and most of the people live their entire lives there, not straying far from home.
My friends and I, all three of us, were so ecstatic upon arrival and were warmly welcomed by the family of Cristina, her husband Victor, their daughter Maribel, and her boyfriend Abram. Estefanìa connected with Cristina through a co-worker in Lima and therefore we had the opportunity to fully experience the island instead of just pass through it. Our overnight visit there was far beyond what the average tourist experiences on the floating islands (which I have read that many see as floating souvineer stands). This particular family is very interested in hosting kind, caring visitors, but the tourism they seek is far from mainstream as they wish not to exploit the authentic, fragile nature of Los Uros. They are working hard toward shaping and maintaining a specific type of tourism for their island. Solely through word of mouth, they invite travelers to learn about one of the oldest communities in the world, that of Los Uros.
Los Uros are floating islands, man-made from totora, a reed like plant that grows naturally in the lake. These small island communities use totora to build nearly everything, including the ground, the huts, the boats, and other household items. On Qhantati, there are 6 families and they operate as a very tight community. I believe there are 40 something islands and most of the people live their entire lives there, not straying far from home.
My friends and I, all three of us, were so ecstatic upon arrival and were warmly welcomed by the family of Cristina, her husband Victor, their daughter Maribel, and her boyfriend Abram. Estefanìa connected with Cristina through a co-worker in Lima and therefore we had the opportunity to fully experience the island instead of just pass through it. Our overnight visit there was far beyond what the average tourist experiences on the floating islands (which I have read that many see as floating souvineer stands). This particular family is very interested in hosting kind, caring visitors, but the tourism they seek is far from mainstream as they wish not to exploit the authentic, fragile nature of Los Uros. They are working hard toward shaping and maintaining a specific type of tourism for their island. Solely through word of mouth, they invite travelers to learn about one of the oldest communities in the world, that of Los Uros.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Courage
I went on a little mini-advenuture yesterday that was a lot of fun and at the same time took some courage! I had a goal of seeing this waterfall (Catarata del Rio Tigre) and since I´m here in Oxapampa without my Spanish speaking sister, Estefanìa to help me get around, everything is a bit more challenging. However, it has been a beneficial challenge for me to do some solo travel in order to practice my Spanish without a crutch. Just finding out where to go and how to get there is an interesting process. I tend to get nervous about approaching people to ask, but I realize that as with everything, I will be better at it with practice. I am learning that the balance between independence and effective interaction is a necessary part of a rich traveling experience.
Anyway...I ended up taking a moto-taxi, essentially a motobike with a covered back seat for passengers (THE way to get around here in Oxapampa) and it included a guided tour by the driver. So, Carlos was my guide for the day. He is from Oxapampa and is the proud owner of 2 moto-taxis, which he operates alongside his brother. They provide quick rides as well as extensive tours. He is also a farmer of coffee and various fruits (of which there are many I`ve never heard of here in Peru). I don´t remember which ones he grows, but some of the more popular here are granadilla (growing everywhere on vines that look like grapes), cherimoya, lulu, and lucuma to name just a few.
Carlos, whom I found by way of his wife selling citrus at the Saturday market, was friendly and informative, and luckily I was able to communicate significantly well with him. Little by little, I am understanding the individual accents of different Peruvians.
After negotiating a reasonable hourly rate (only about $3 per hour), he drove me to the path and then we trekked by foot a good mile and a half each way, including some steep incline. I was glad I didn´t attempt the trip by myself. I had taken the bike (lent to me by the señora I´m staying with) to town and was planning to ride it all the way to the hiking path, but it was a pretty good distance away and I definitely wouldn´t have known where to go to see all of the views. Carlos showed me a much more unique route, veering off the path into the very wet, lush, thick rainforest in order to get better views of the waterfall. The hike included some serious climbing and he had to coax me through a couple spots of rushing water up to our knees!! Here, everyone wears tall rain boots which I have been borrowing on the farm, but didn´t have on yesterday.
I got to see some amazing plants! Those of which I recognized were bamboo and air plants. He also pointed out coffee and banana trees as well as a tree that he called Yongol which has HUGE leaves.
In my adventures, I am realizing that even though I am here alone, I´m really not alone at all. I can always meet someone new to help me find my way, but it has to start with confidence in myself and my ability to succeed in whatever goal I might have, large or small. I´m finding that if I make myself face certain discomforts straight on and perservere through the harder parts of life, I learn more and am more proud of myself in the long run.
Viva la vida!
Anyway...I ended up taking a moto-taxi, essentially a motobike with a covered back seat for passengers (THE way to get around here in Oxapampa) and it included a guided tour by the driver. So, Carlos was my guide for the day. He is from Oxapampa and is the proud owner of 2 moto-taxis, which he operates alongside his brother. They provide quick rides as well as extensive tours. He is also a farmer of coffee and various fruits (of which there are many I`ve never heard of here in Peru). I don´t remember which ones he grows, but some of the more popular here are granadilla (growing everywhere on vines that look like grapes), cherimoya, lulu, and lucuma to name just a few.
Carlos, whom I found by way of his wife selling citrus at the Saturday market, was friendly and informative, and luckily I was able to communicate significantly well with him. Little by little, I am understanding the individual accents of different Peruvians.
After negotiating a reasonable hourly rate (only about $3 per hour), he drove me to the path and then we trekked by foot a good mile and a half each way, including some steep incline. I was glad I didn´t attempt the trip by myself. I had taken the bike (lent to me by the señora I´m staying with) to town and was planning to ride it all the way to the hiking path, but it was a pretty good distance away and I definitely wouldn´t have known where to go to see all of the views. Carlos showed me a much more unique route, veering off the path into the very wet, lush, thick rainforest in order to get better views of the waterfall. The hike included some serious climbing and he had to coax me through a couple spots of rushing water up to our knees!! Here, everyone wears tall rain boots which I have been borrowing on the farm, but didn´t have on yesterday.
I got to see some amazing plants! Those of which I recognized were bamboo and air plants. He also pointed out coffee and banana trees as well as a tree that he called Yongol which has HUGE leaves.
In my adventures, I am realizing that even though I am here alone, I´m really not alone at all. I can always meet someone new to help me find my way, but it has to start with confidence in myself and my ability to succeed in whatever goal I might have, large or small. I´m finding that if I make myself face certain discomforts straight on and perservere through the harder parts of life, I learn more and am more proud of myself in the long run.
Viva la vida!
Monday, February 22, 2010
Fresh from the States
A Few Highlights of the First Days
The Trip to Lima:
I spoke only Spanish for the entire day of traveling once I passed through the international gate at the LAX airport. Finally, now that I have no other choice, I have jumped in head first!! Of course, I should have started practicing well before my trip, but I guess no time is too late!
The airport in El Salvador was inviting, but there were two or three very serious and suspecting guards armed with drug dogs wandering throughout the small terminal. No messing around!
The Arrival:
My good friend Estefania, mi hermana española was so excellent to meet me at the gate upon my arrival. It had been EIGHT years since we had seen each other and it was a very exciting reunion at the Lima airport! We have both talked about a trip to South America together over the years since we first met in Spain. To be able to accomplish such an adventurous goal makes us both feel as though we can do ANYTHING we want to in life!
Accomodations:
I am staying with Estefania in a neighborhood (barrio) called Los Olivos across from a little park and just above the landlord who takes good care of us. We stay in a twin sized bed together (so generous of Estefania to share)!!! To be honest, it is a very poor neighborhood here, but we are very cautious and lucky to have a good family looking out for us. It is quite interesting to observe the contrast here between the very very poor and the very very rich. It seems that there is no middle.
Food (VERY important!):
A few yummy Peruvian things that I have tried
are... Chicharrones, a traditional charred pork which we ate in sandwich form, self composed at the table with pickled onion and cilantro mix, camote (slices of sweet potato), and au jús. That same day, our friend Fernando also introduced us to pink banana, called platano de la isla which has a very distinct flavor and consistency...maybe a bit of a citrus flavor. Then yesterday, we had an amazing lunch (also with Fernando and his sister Lisi). There we tried Chupes de Langostino a very rich and flavorful seafood soup and Chichamorada, a refresco (or juice) made from purple corn and cooked pineapple.
Sights:
Museo Banco Central de Reserva del Peru http://museobcr.perucultural.org.pe/ This museum is located in what used to be a bank and is under very tight security, but is free to the public and holds many sacred antiques from various, distinct Peruvian cultures that existed throughout the eras. We were very lucky to spend a full day in the Center of Lima with Eduardo, a friend of Estefania who has studied tourism and specifically enjoys architecture and history. He was our amazing tour guide that day.
Cirquito Magico del Agua - This park in the center of Lima is a great fixture for the hot summer nights and provides a serene, relaxing feel. It features a beautiful array of water fountains combined with light shows. Many of the fountains are made for walking through and there is even one in which a wet game similar to hopscotch is played by kids of all ages.
The Trip to Lima:
I spoke only Spanish for the entire day of traveling once I passed through the international gate at the LAX airport. Finally, now that I have no other choice, I have jumped in head first!! Of course, I should have started practicing well before my trip, but I guess no time is too late!
The airport in El Salvador was inviting, but there were two or three very serious and suspecting guards armed with drug dogs wandering throughout the small terminal. No messing around!
The Arrival:
My good friend Estefania, mi hermana española was so excellent to meet me at the gate upon my arrival. It had been EIGHT years since we had seen each other and it was a very exciting reunion at the Lima airport! We have both talked about a trip to South America together over the years since we first met in Spain. To be able to accomplish such an adventurous goal makes us both feel as though we can do ANYTHING we want to in life!
Accomodations:
I am staying with Estefania in a neighborhood (barrio) called Los Olivos across from a little park and just above the landlord who takes good care of us. We stay in a twin sized bed together (so generous of Estefania to share)!!! To be honest, it is a very poor neighborhood here, but we are very cautious and lucky to have a good family looking out for us. It is quite interesting to observe the contrast here between the very very poor and the very very rich. It seems that there is no middle.
Food (VERY important!):
A few yummy Peruvian things that I have tried
are... Chicharrones, a traditional charred pork which we ate in sandwich form, self composed at the table with pickled onion and cilantro mix, camote (slices of sweet potato), and au jús. That same day, our friend Fernando also introduced us to pink banana, called platano de la isla which has a very distinct flavor and consistency...maybe a bit of a citrus flavor. Then yesterday, we had an amazing lunch (also with Fernando and his sister Lisi). There we tried Chupes de Langostino a very rich and flavorful seafood soup and Chichamorada, a refresco (or juice) made from purple corn and cooked pineapple.
Sights:
Museo Banco Central de Reserva del Peru http://museobcr.perucultural.org.pe/ This museum is located in what used to be a bank and is under very tight security, but is free to the public and holds many sacred antiques from various, distinct Peruvian cultures that existed throughout the eras. We were very lucky to spend a full day in the Center of Lima with Eduardo, a friend of Estefania who has studied tourism and specifically enjoys architecture and history. He was our amazing tour guide that day.
Cirquito Magico del Agua - This park in the center of Lima is a great fixture for the hot summer nights and provides a serene, relaxing feel. It features a beautiful array of water fountains combined with light shows. Many of the fountains are made for walking through and there is even one in which a wet game similar to hopscotch is played by kids of all ages.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
¡Despiértate!
¡Kikiriki!
La llamada del gallo fue el primero sonido que oí cuando me desperté la primera mañana en Lima. ¡Por fin, estoy aqui en Peru! El desafío de aprender todas las cosas de un lugar nuevo es increíble pero, en poco tiempo ya me he acostumbrado mucho y mi mente esta menos cansada cada día. El choque de los sentidos es del inmersión completo en una cultura muy distinta con un idioma que no es mio. Además, tambien tuve un choque real... La misma mañana que me desperté por el gallo, luego en la ducha, cuando toqué la instalación para ajustarla, recibí un bastante susto de electricidad. ¡Que fuerte son los mensajes de la vida a veces! ¡Despiértate!
Translation:
Kikiriki! (Cock-a-doodle-doo!)
The call of the rooster in español was the first sound that I heard when I woke up the first morning in Lima. Finally, I am here in Peru! The challenge of learning everything in a new place is incredible, but in just a short time, I have already become quite accustomed and my mind is less and less tired each day. The shock of the senses comes from the complete immersion in a very different culture with a language that is not mine. Beyond that though, I also received an actual shock... The same morning that I was awakened by the rooster, later in the shower, when I reached up to adjust the shower head, I received a signifiant jolt of electricity. Life´s messages are strong sometimes! WAKE UP!!
La llamada del gallo fue el primero sonido que oí cuando me desperté la primera mañana en Lima. ¡Por fin, estoy aqui en Peru! El desafío de aprender todas las cosas de un lugar nuevo es increíble pero, en poco tiempo ya me he acostumbrado mucho y mi mente esta menos cansada cada día. El choque de los sentidos es del inmersión completo en una cultura muy distinta con un idioma que no es mio. Además, tambien tuve un choque real... La misma mañana que me desperté por el gallo, luego en la ducha, cuando toqué la instalación para ajustarla, recibí un bastante susto de electricidad. ¡Que fuerte son los mensajes de la vida a veces! ¡Despiértate!
Translation:
Kikiriki! (Cock-a-doodle-doo!)
The call of the rooster in español was the first sound that I heard when I woke up the first morning in Lima. Finally, I am here in Peru! The challenge of learning everything in a new place is incredible, but in just a short time, I have already become quite accustomed and my mind is less and less tired each day. The shock of the senses comes from the complete immersion in a very different culture with a language that is not mine. Beyond that though, I also received an actual shock... The same morning that I was awakened by the rooster, later in the shower, when I reached up to adjust the shower head, I received a signifiant jolt of electricity. Life´s messages are strong sometimes! WAKE UP!!
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Instinctive Travel
Graced with the presence of the lovely San Diego, I continue to explore and revel in this enchanting world that has become a home. And yet, in one week, I shall be leaving the comforts of home for a long imagined adventure. This extended trek to South America, a dream that I had once filed away as "unrealistic", I am nothing short of ready for in 2010. Scheduled to touch down on Peruvian soil on February 17th, I look forward to this journey with my eyes and soul wide open. Stay tuned and stay in touch my friends.
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